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LeviBooth |
Training books for dogs |
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We're (finally) getting a puppy - 8 weeks old - for the kids. Any advice on books/styles of training? Our intention is only a well behaved family dog, no
hunting/etc... skills necessary...
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whirly711 |
#1 | |||
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Remember - YOU are the pack leader.
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TristansShadow |
#2 | |||
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what kind of dog?
"Tristan spoil's the board." DCB, April Fool.
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Big Eddy Springs |
#3 | |||
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It is really a training book for people!
"The boys. They couldn't tie their knots, but they could really tie one on" -R.H.
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butchbadger |
#4 | |||
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Easier said than done. We got a rescue puppy that we were told was mostly lab. It turns out it is half greyhound. Sweetest, nicest dog in the world, but TONS
of energy. Very hyper.
We had no luck with an electric fence because she is too fast and learned if she sprints through it doesn't hurt for long enough to matter. She would roma the neighborhood and cuase Marly-like havoc for hours until she was exhausted and would flop herself at the fence line and wait for me to take her collar off to come home. This spring we actualy hired a trainer who was a godsend. We had to buy a shock collar, but with the training we almost never have to use it. She has learned the boundary of the yard and unless a deer or turkeys walk by she doesn't run for it anymore. I fyou are in the Milwaukke area I'll PM you our trainer. |
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LeviBooth |
#5 | |||
TristansShadow wrote: I'd guess lab with some poodle mixed in? Lab buld/look with hair/face a bit standard poodle-y... |
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dbt05 |
#6 | |||
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I have two. My fiance got a beagle during the Cesar Milan hey-day and we thought that would work. I got a border collie one year ago. Obviously, these are VERY
different dogs but, I wish I wouldn't have bought into the pack leader mentality with the beagle. It seems as though that is a method for dogs with
behavior issues, not energetic puppies. Just my 2 cents.
Also, be careful in this state on where/ from whom you buy the dogs. Be sure to be able to inspect the parents and the other puppies. Did you choose a breed? (Nevermind) |
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badgerab |
#7 | |||
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Puppies for Dummies. Seriously. Good book with a lot of basic information. We have a boxer who is 10 and a valley bulldog (boxer/bulldog cross) that we just
got a few months ago. Read the book cover to cover both times.
Very helpful. Michael Flowers- #22 in our program, #1 in our heart |
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Pointerpride102.muskieville |
#8 | |||
whirly711 wrote: This is actually really good advice. The dog needs to understand that you are in charge. This doesn't mean go all Michael Vick on it, but raising your voice and getting up in their face a bit isn't cruel. My parents have 2 soft coated wheaton terriers (terrors) and if you think you've had a hyper dog, you haven't owned one of these. My parents have little to no control over these dogs except when I am home. If our male dog is being a pain in the ass, one snap of my fingers and he'll stop. Also, be sure to use lots of positive reinforcement, so the dog doesn't think you're a complete asshole. I taught one of our dogs to sit and shake with both paws and lay down in about 2 hours with a treat. Dogs are smart and if you teach them with treats, they pick up things real quick. I will recommend Bil jack liver treats. Work like a charm.
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Locums Razor |
#9 | |||
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Don't Shoot the Dog is a good one. Looks like Amazon is temporarily out of stock. The Amazon page also shows some clicker books as recommendations; we
had pretty good luck with clicker training too.
Don't Shoot the Dog Our dog is a wheaten terrier mix that we adopted at 9 weeks old. Most terriers have sort of a ceiling on the amount of training and control they'll accept, which was a good fit for us since we have a ceiling on the amount of effort we'll put into training. But we got her trained on the essential stuff. |
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RedBucky |
#10 | |||
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While Cesar's whole pack leader thing is a good idea in theory, it can be pretty difficult to actually carry out, though it probably depends on the dog. We
adopted a 7 month old dog about a year ago, who came with issues, mostly stranger anxiety that translates into aggression. We tried Cesar's schtick but it
didn't really work with our dog. We've found that with a combination of prozac, lots of treats, praise, and patience he has actually become submissive
to us without us having to hold him down on the ground or hiss at him (I always chuckle when I see people walking their dogs and hissing at them like Cesar).
He's come a long way in a year, but still has a ways to go. He will probably never be as sweet to others as he is to us, but that's something we've
learned to live with. As far as books, sorry, can't help you there since we didn't buy any. All our advice has come from a couple trainers and vets.
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RichInBunlyGoodness |
#11 | |||
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I highly recommend The Art of
Raising a Puppy.
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TxBadger |
#12 | |||
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While not a book recco, some advice:
!) One word commands - here, sit, stay, shake, heel ..... 2) Everyone has to use the same command all the time
Timster:"Drink until you like yourself" Okie Dokie
******************** Let's change health care of 85% of the people to give 15% of the population puts a new twist to the needs of the few outweigh the needs of the many. ******************** We'll add 47M people to the pool and lower costs... right now let's talk about that beachfront property just east of El Paso ============ Avatar by Myles |
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TristansShadow |
#13 | |||
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couple of thoughts -- the Cesar person described in this thread sounds dopey.
And I am sure the books recommended fit the bill. If you are interested here are a few opinions and tips I have developed: It's important to remember why dogs can be our pets: because they are social animals that can be part of our (human) group. This means they prefer to be part of the family and keeping them segregated too much will lead to a problem dogs. Along these lines; -remember that the dog's mother has already house broken the puppy and the puppy's first impulse is to not mess its own home / den. If you can get it outside often enough and give verbal/touch/food encouragement the chore of housebreaking will be much easier. -socialize the pup to other dogs. If there is a dog park in the neighborhood take it there once every few weeks. At first it will hang around you, but the experience will make it less likely to be skittish around other dogs and humans it encounters when on home ground or on a lead. Also helps to burn off puppy energy. -routine is very important. feeding and exercise. For a Lab mix swimming is a huge plus if possible. Running long distances with most breeds is just asking for expensive vet bills. Short bursts are best for Labs and most dogs. -don't go cheap on the food. cheaper food has more filler which just means more dog crap. long term health is better too, avoidance of vet bills offsets food costs. Nyla bones or any kind of plastic chew toys are a nightmare waiting to happen. My dogs get one pig's ear a day. Good for teeth, for chewing, for establishing a routine. You might need to find something else for the first few months for a puppy. Dogs should be skinny, you need to be able to tell where their rib cage ends. This also lowers doctors bills and greatly extends life expectancy. -keep a dog bed near where you are sleeping. use a t-shirt or something with your stink on it as part of the bed. otherwise you will have an extra 60 pounds in your bed. -keep the dog's food dish clean. Dogs do have a remarkable ability to eat anything. But eventually all that saliva and food leads to bacteria, which will lead to puking. Human doesn't understand why dog is puking, downward spiral between dog and human. I prefer ceramic type bowls and just run them through the dishwasher every couple of days. same with the water dish. Same is also true for any measuring device or container that come in contact with the dog's food. It sounds basic, but lots of people don't think about it. -a standard collar isn't the best thing to hook a lead to. It doesn't control the dog in a positive way and can also lead to damage over the long term. For bigger dogs I prefer the pincher type of collar as a training device. The metal choker is best left to pros. -happily Lab mixes really don't need much grooming. One area where house dogs need some assistance is their nails. It's one of the few areas they feel any discomfort. House dogs don't have the opportunity to wear them down, so if you hear lots of clicking as the dog walks the nails are probably too long. The problem is that clipping the nails and cutting to the quick will cause anxiety and pain, too. So if necessary have them groomed or find a way to keep them worn down without clipping. -keep some styptic powder available. When dogs are territorial they go for each others ears, bleeding ensues. Styptic powder is very useful. gotta run, I'll add some other hints and actual training advice later. Personally I believe that training, as opposed to general behavior, does vary by breed. Labs are easy to train as you can work their natural instincts to hunt with men to your advantage.
"Tristan spoil's the board." DCB, April Fool.
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Slimm21 |
#14 | |||
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Water Dog
It has a hunting theme to it, but you can exclude it. It covers all the basic obedience. If you can train the dog on "sit, stay, come, and no" everything else will fall into place. You must be firm though. Let it know who the boss is. |
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LeviBooth |
#15 | |||
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Dammit, this board is awesome. Thanks for all...
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PollisRobertson |
#16 | |||
RichInBunlyGoodness wrote: I am not a dog person (or pet person at all), but my mother highly recommend's this book as well, and used it with her german shepherd pup, who became a wonderful tempered and mannered dog.
I'm in love with my dental hygienist. I think she's very pretty and a great conversationalist. So, while I'm in the waiting room I eat an entire
bag of Oreo cookies. - NumenLumen
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ssbadger |
#17 | |||
TristansShadow wrote: We bought a collar called the Gentle Leader. I think it was about $15 at PetSmart. It is supposed to correct dogs as there mothers would by putting pressure on its snout. It doesn't pinch or choke the dog. Our dog doesn't like it a lot but now tolerates it for walks and never pulls while wearing it. Watch the training DVD that comes with it or else you will probably use it wrong. The other thing to reiterate are simple commands followed by praise in the form of lots of little treats and affection. We have a great "bed" command to have the dog go to and stay on his bed whenever he is wound up/strangers come over.
"If this isn't nice, I don't know what is." Kurt Vonnegut
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ryebadger |
#18 | |||
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Good post by Tristan. We just got a puppy about 2 months ago. I'm sure everyone will be surprised to know we named him Bucky.
1. We housebroke him right away, and the key was to have him sleep in a crate or cage and take him out a lot, then reward him on the spot when he "goes" outside. They don't like to shit where they sleep. He'll whine about the cage at first but get used to it. 2. If they nip or bite, put a chew toy or pigs ear in the mouth every time they bite you. Teething is a bitch so you have to substitute something for your hand or finger. 3. You have to constantly be aware of what they have in their mouths. They eat everything at first. 4. Get a collar with a name tag but use a step in harness for the leash. It's safer for the dog's back and neck 5. As a general bit of advice, go to an independently owned pet store instead of a big chain. We did and it's been a big help. The owner taught us more in 10 minutes than we could have ever learned in a book. Now she knows us and has walked us through the process. You won't get that personalized attention and advice at petco, and the mass produced food they sell can be sketchy (even the so-called natural or organic stuff). The small independent stores will sell really high quality, locally made dog food. It's a bit more expensive but not that much more, and it's worth it in the long run. 6. I'm fairly surprised at the expense. My wife is a sucker for the products and accessories they have for seemingly everything, but even standard shit like the vet is crazy. My vet bill from last Friday (check up and a round of shots, stool sample for a parasite) was almost $500. I almost fell on the floor. A few times I've taken him out at midnight or later and been stared down by a huge fucking coyote. I've been told they leave humans alone but I've got dinner at the end of the leash and these things are scary looking, like a skinnier wolf. Now I carry a huge ass flashlight and a sturdy wooden club when I take him out late at night. I've also been told there are a few hawks nests near us and sometimes the hawks mistake puppies for rabbits. They'll swoop down and take the dog. Who would've imagined this shit? I don't know if this is an issue for you but beware, I guess.
"Generally I think having a good, balanced attitude toward losing is not what I'm after." Badgerinmifl
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ssbadger |
#19 | |||
ryebadger wrote: I would not get a harness for leash walking if your dog is going to be big or strong. It is a lot easier for them to pull you. A pinch collar or Gentle Leader is the way to go. We do have a harness, which is great for handling the dog or if the dog is on a tied down rope. Agree completely with crate training, eventually the dog learns to be able to roam the house without supervision but ours ate EVERYTHING (cell phones, glasses) at first. Yes, we were dumb to leave these things at dog level.
"If this isn't nice, I don't know what is." Kurt Vonnegut
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SOLObucky |
#20 | |||
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Good points from all. I'll add my 2 cents.
When dealing with a puppy, patience, patience patience. They're cute, but they'll be moments when you're wondering what the hell you got
yourself into. To this day, I still think the 1st year of our puppy was more difficult than the 1st year of my daughter.
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